
Espresso
Making espresso at home is a weird proposition. Itβs inherently a process built around large scales and repeatability, like an auto assembly line, and while technically itβs possible to assemble a Ford Fusion in your garage, why would anyone want to?Β
At the same time though, thereβs nothing quite like an espresso or an espresso drink from a cafe.Β No amount of finagling will turn something that comes out of a drip brewer into the same rich and syrupy experience as an espresso shot, and nothing quite like a proper espresso marries with foamy textured hot milk to create a cappuccino or latte.Β While there is no shortage of places to get an excellent Peace Coffee espresso drink out there, we, as Minnesotans understand that sometimes you just donβt want to leave the house. Sometimes itβs because of a polar vortex and sometimes itβs because the act of putting on real pants can just seem daunting.Β So hereβs what to know when youβre pondering a home espresso journey.
What You Need
When we talk about a home espresso setup, there are three main components to consider: the actual espresso brewer, the steam wand/frothing device, and the grinder. Each of these three things act pretty independently of each other, but all of them come together to create the beverages we get in the cafe, so itβs worth knowing what weβre talking about with respect to each of them.Β
Espresso is defined as a 25-35ml beverage prepared from 7-9 grams of coffee through which clean water of 92Β°-95Β°C has been forced at 9-10 atmospheres of pressure, and where the grind of the coffee is such that the brewing βflowβ time is approximately 20-30 seconds. In order to create true espresso, your machine needs to be able to heat water to 92Β° β 95Β° C (around 200Β°F), and push it at 9-10 atmospheres, and your grinder needs to grind fine enough (and just as importantly, precisely enough) that the resistance from the grind produces a 30 mL beverage in 20-30 seconds.
In addition, to create the kind of silky smooth but still thick and full milk foam that tops our espresso drinks in the cafΓ©s, you need steam thatβs being held at 120Β°C and at 1-1.5 atmospheres of pressure.Β As of this writing, the most inexpensive option for a machine and grinder thatβs capable of doing all of these things comes to about a $1000 price tag, and this is for a particularly non-user-friendly machine. Not everyone needs this absolute level of quality though, so letβs go through all the aspects of various machines to find what might work for everyoneβs skill level and budget.
Non-Electric MachinesΒ
Some excellent beverages can be made that will make for a good espresso or pseudo-espresso experience on the relatively cheap if one is willing to expend a little bit of elbow grease and do the work yourself of heating and pressurizing the water rather than letting a machine do it.Β The classic βstovetop espresso machineβ is theΒ Bialetti MokaΒ pot.Β This uses the pressure of evaporating water vapor to press the water through the puck of coffee in the center of the pot.Β When used well and dialed in properly it will make a delightful stronger-than-drip kinda-sorta-espresso-like drink that works beautifully to make a cafe latte in oneβs home.
Another wonderful little device is theΒ Aeropress, which uses pressure from a piston pressed by the user to create the pressure to create a tiny and concentrated coffee shot.Β Again, it canβt make true espresso, but it makes something espresso-like that can be cut with milk for a cafe-like experience.
There also exist out there gizmos like theΒ NomadΒ and theΒ FlairΒ that promise to make proper espresso without any electricity, and while their science is sound, no one at Peace Coffee has any direct experience with them and canβt comment directly on their effectiveness. An excellent companion to any of these is theΒ Bellman stovetop steamer, which is effectively a tiny little pressure cooker with a steam wand attached, which frankly does an amazing job of making cafe-quality steam to heat and texture milk for what a little and inexpensive machine it is.
Steam Driven Espresso Machines
The earliest machines for espresso coffee from the early 1900s had a single boiler that was filled partially with water and heated to temperatures well beyond boiling.Β The pressure that resulted from the steam at the top of the boiler being built up would push the superheated water through a puck of coffee to brew it faster than any existing method.Β The problem is that superheated water is going to always extract some super bitter and dry components of the coffee, no matter how well every other aspect of the coffee is prepared.
No professional espresso machines use steam driven pressure to brew espresso anymore, but some home machines like theΒ Capresso Steam PROΒ and theΒ Mr Coffee ECM-160Β still do as itβs the most inexpensive way to build a pressurized hot water system, but theyβre probably the worst way to brew espresso. Steam driven machines produce bitter coffee slowly, messily, and inconveniently.Β That being said, among electric espresso machines they are definitely the least expensive kind you can get, so if you need something espresso-ish right now, donβt have much to spend, and need something electric rather than manual, this is your option.
Dual Temp Pressurized Portafilter Machines
The most inexpensive and user-friendly machines that are a good entry-level to home espresso making are machines that use a vibratory pump to pressurize the water flowing through the coffee and have multiple temperature settings, one for brewing coffee and one for steaming milk. The less-expensive pumps in these machines arenβt as accurate as professional ones which use a combination of consistent pump pressure and very finely and consistently ground coffee to achieve a consistent brew time and thus a consistent cup.
To make up for it, these machines will have a gizmo called a βpressurized portafilterβ, which has a tiny aperture in it to slow the flow rate of the coffee down to produce a consistent cup. Pressurized portafilters donβt produce as smooth and velvety an espresso as a traditional portafilter but they taste far better than steam driven espresso and are far easier to use than a traditional portafilter. These machines use a single boiler for both steam and coffee, which means you canβt make espresso and steam milk at the same time, you either need to wait for the boiler to heat up to steam milk, or for it to cool down to make espresso, so these machines arenβt for those in a hurry if you want to make espresso and milk drinks.Β
An entry-level Dual Temp machine would be something like theΒ Capresso EC Pro, which will absolutely get the job done of making a tasty latte or two on a snowed-in morning. If youβre looking for a bit more temperature accuracy and a bit more than making one drink at a time, theΒ Breville Dual-Temp ProΒ is a nice upgrade for the same type of espresso machine.
Thermoblocks & Standard Portafilters
If youβre looking to be able to steam milk and produce espresso at the same time but donβt want to drop a whole lot more money on a machine than a dual-temp machine, an option would be a machine with a thermoblock in it.Β Thermoblocks superheat tiny amounts of water so that your boiler can stay comfortably in the 200Β° range, perfect for brewing coffee, while also superheating small amounts for steam for heating and texturing milk. Thermoblocks are handy because as the end user you can start extracting your espresso, start steaming your milk, and have both ready and fresh at roughly the same time. Thermoblock steam however isnβt as high pressure as the steam coming off a dedicated boiler, so the milk bubble structure isnβt nearly as fine as that off a professional machine.Β If a dealbreaker is the ability to pour latte art, a thermoblock machine isnβt for you. Machines that are nice enough to have thermoblocks also typically have accurate enough pumps that the home barista is able to use a standard portafilter rather than a pressurized one.
Standard portafilters rely on consistent and well packed grounds of coffee for the bed resistance to allow for proper flow rate, so they have a steeper learning curve than nonpressurized ones, but for the true espresso fiend who craves the rich and velvety full body of a proper cafΓ© espresso thereβs no substitute for the quality. As an end-user, you can see if a machine has the ability to make coffee with a standard portafilter because it will have a pump pressure gauge on the machine.Β Β The Breville InfuserΒ is a marvelous machine for the average quality-focussed user, and if youβre looking for something that uses professional level parts and has a handful more bells and whistles, TheΒ Crossland CC1Β packs a lot of features into a small box.
Heat Exchangers and Dual Boilers
To have a machine that can steam milk and make espresso at the same time and can also achieve the high pressure steam needed to create latte art an espresso machine needs either a heat exchanger or multiple boilers.Β A heat exchanger uses some tubing that runs through the steam boiler in an espresso machine to rapidly heat water from room temperature to water ideal for brewing. Dual boiler machines have dedicated boilers for specifically espresso and steaming milk.Β Heat exchangers are a little more economical a buildout, but suffer from imprecise brewing temperatures.
Machines with heat exchangers or dual boilers use the same kind of architecture as professional machines, so even with their smaller footprint, theyβre excellent in a situation where one needs to crank out a series of drinks or many people all are looking to make espresso drinks in a quick series, so potentially theyβre something that might be a good idea for a household with a lot of coffee drinkers or for a small office where cafΓ© runs have gotten out of hand. TheΒ Nuova Simonelli Oscar IIΒ is an excellently priced little heat exchanger machine, and theΒ Breville Dual BoilerΒ is frankly an astonishing bargain for a dual boiler machine.Β
Durability, fixability, and aesthetics
Once you reach the feature level of a dual boiler pump-driven machine, youβre looking at pretty much an identical style machine to a professional level machine, but there are some factors that can still go into a home espresso setup.Β First, every budding home barista should go into buying an espresso machine knowing that their espresso machine will break. It is not a question of βifβ it will break, but βwhenβ. Espresso machines by their nature exist under pressure and stress, so at some point something will go wrong.Β Generally speaking the pricier the machine the longer it will last, though this isnβt always a hard and fast rule. Machines that use professional parts are not only going to last longer, but will also be easier to fix, either by yourself if youβre handy with a wrench, or by an experienced espresso tech.Β
Cheaper machines typically have proprietary architecture that can only be fixed by mailing it into a service center, if they can be fixed at all. Also of course what materials the machine is built out of is going to dictate how it looks and feels in your kitchen. Brushed stainless steel construction is much nicer looking and durable than plastic housing but is also substantially more expensive.Β In addition, fancier machines might have quieter and more reliable rotary vane pumps rather than noisy vibratory pumps.
The gold standard for home espresso isΒ La Marzoccoβs GS3 and Linea Mini, built with pro parts that are technician friendly, incredibly reliable electronics, full stainless steel construction, a whisper-quiet rotary vane pump, and if purchased, La Marzocco will match you with a local coffee expert to come to your house and train you in the machineβs use. They also cost about as much as a reliable used car, but if you purchase lattes every day at the local super fancy coffee shop and would switch to using one of these, the machines would effectively pay for themselves after about 5 to 10 years (depending on what kind of coffee youβre brewing and how picky you are about milk choices).
Grinders
Espresso machines make espresso. Grinders make espresso taste good. No matter how youβre making your coffee, a good and reliable grinder is absolutely necessary to get your drinks tasting excellent.Β Compounding difficulties is that preground espresso really really doesnβt work. Beyond the standard quality argument that people should be grinding coffee fresh all the time, every espresso machine and configuration is slightly different and one kind of preground espresso might not work with your machine, rendering the entire bag useless.
In addition, because espresso is extracted so quickly, the grounds must be of incredibly uniform size in order to extract evenly (as well as providing the necessary bed resistance to get a good flow rate in a non-pressurized portafilter). For this reason, not only are the ubiquitous inexpensive blade grinders useless for espresso, so too are the more inexpensively priced burr grinders out on the market, as these will crush the beans into many different non uniform sizes and make for a poor espresso extraction.Β
The most inexpensive grinder on the market that can achieve as fine and uniform a grind size to make espresso is theΒ Capresso Infinity, but with only 16 points of articulation you may find one setting too coarse, and its neighboring setting too fine.Β In addition, its burrs wear out quickly. TheΒ Baratza VirtuosoΒ makes for a pretty good all-around grinder if youβre looking to make espresso and other types of filter coffee as well. If youβre looking to really hone in on excellently made espresso though, a dedicated espresso-only grinder is truly the way to go. TheΒ Baratza Sette 270 WiΒ delivers an impressive level of features (such as a built-in scale and 270 points of articulation) but can only handle a few espressos a day being ground through it, while theΒ Rancilio Rocky SDΒ will both deliver on the accuracy of the dial and can make shot after shot super reliably.Β Β
Super Automatics
All the machinery mentioned so far has been some kind of manual machinery. No matter what else it is still on a human operator to pack coffee into the portafilter, switch on the pump to extract the espresso, and run the steam wand to texture and heat milk by hand.Β There exists however a number of machines that will do these steps for you, which are colloquially known as βsuper autosβ in the industry. These machines have series of pistons, chutes, valves, and sensors to do all the extracting and heating for you so you donβt have to.Β The thing to know about super-autos is 1) automation always makes things more expensive, and 2) no matter how well engineered the machine is it will need to be calibrated on a regular basis.
There is no such thing as a true βset it and forget itβ machine. With any of these machines the more well-engineered the parts the better the espresso thatβs going to come out of it, but also the price tag will climb ever higher. Generally speaking for the convenience of automation one can expect a similar level of quality out of a super auto as from a manual machine that costs half as much. So a machine like theΒ Saeco IncantoΒ will give you a quality similar to the dual-temp pressurized portafilter machines mentioned above, while theΒ Breville Oracle TouchΒ will automate the functions of the Breville Dual-Boiler mentioned above.Β
Accessories
There are all kinds of tiny little extra costs that come around with an espresso setup, so itβs good to plan for these as well.Β If youβre making milk drinks itβs good to steam your milk in a dedicatedΒ stainless steel steaming pitcher. Yes, a plastic measuring cup will work, but you canβt pour latte art with it; itβs way more difficult to tell its temperature, and it just doesnβt look cool. If youβre getting a machine with a traditional portafilter, youβll need a tamp to go with it. Be sure to get one that will fit your portafilter and has some heft to it.
Plastic tamps arenβt worth the space they take up. Aluminum tamps are okay, butΒ steel tampsΒ are marvelous.Β Youβll want aΒ knock boxΒ to get rid of your spent espressos. Youβll want some extraΒ kitchen towelsΒ to wipe off your portafilter and steam wand after use. If youβre concerned with accuracy of extraction youβll want aΒ scaleΒ to measure your in and out weights, or at least aΒ measuring glass.
Youβll want aΒ brushΒ to brush up the coffee grounds that inevitably get everywhere. Youβll definitely want some cleaning supplies to clean the interiors of yourΒ espresso machineΒ andΒ grinderΒ to keep them working nicely. And of course, youβll want a niceΒ mugΒ to drink your drinks out of.Β
Plastic tamps arenβt worth the space they take up. Aluminum tamps are okay, butΒ steel tampsΒ are marvelous.Β Youβll want aΒ knock boxΒ to get rid of your spent espressos. Youβll want some extraΒ kitchen towelsΒ to wipe off your portafilter and steam wand after use. If youβre concerned with accuracy of extraction youβll want aΒ scaleΒ to measure your in and out weights, or at least aΒ measuring glass.
Youβll want aΒ brushΒ to brush up the coffee grounds that inevitably get everywhere. Youβll definitely want some cleaning supplies to clean the interiors of yourΒ espresso machineΒ andΒ grinderΒ to keep them working nicely. And of course, youβll want a niceΒ mugΒ to drink your drinks out of.Β , style, or even provide a review.