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An
Award-Winning Bolivian Coffee
by
Ryan Seibold aka p_beri, Production Roaster
Our
new favorite coffee is an award winning selection
from the high altitudes of Bolivia -- a seasonal
and in limited quantity. By seasonal we mean that
it's available for a season only, maybe even only
a month. This amazing bean takes an impressive
journey along the "road of death*,"
which traverses 11,000 feet into Caranavi, the
country's coffee growing mecca where about 80% of
Bolivia's coffee is produced. Apparently Bolivian
farmers call this the "road of life"
because it connects them to the market. In 2006,
Cooperative Coffee, along with other Fair Trade
allies, held a cupping competition in Bolivia. The
Fair Trade Coffee Cupping Competition and
Exchange, in which some 132 samples were set
before a group of expert cuppers,* was a response
to US AID pulling funding out of Bolivia in 2006
for development projects such as the Cup of
Excellence competition –- unless tied to coca
eradication. The coffee we are roasting placed 3rd
overall which means it should be a really great
cup. We received this coffee with much
anticipation and our roaster minds set to work to
come up with the best way to showcase this great
coffee.
Roasting
coffee is a process of revealing what the coffee
has to offer. Our process of finding the best way
to roast involves trying the coffee at different
roast levels, and so during our first experimental
batch we pulled samples out as the coffee roasted,
from a very light cinnamon roast to a medium level
roast (we decided roasting it dark would hide any
characteristics that made this coffee award
winning). And so we cupped the coffee and our
hypothesis of keeping it light was right. The
basic idea of roasting light is that as roasters
we are not flexing our muscles over the bean;
therefore aspects of darker roasts will be absent,
such as: nuances or strong flavors that are
toasty, nutty, smoky, meaty, and/or chocolate. The
resulting coffee is very fruity and layered. It
tastes better the longer as it sits in your cup (a
sign of a great coffee) and pleasantly lingers on
your palate. This coffee offers a mix of dried
apricot, peach and apple flavors, and is
punctuated by citrus and winey aspects that give
the coffee its structure and long-lasting taste
attributes. You may even taste a Jolly Rancher
tang to it. And finally, an added floral quality
makes this coffee great, like a great
single-source honey or a wine.
It's
an adventure roasting coffee light because there
can be so much complexity and variation when
tasting different roasts. So it's great knowing
that at the end of the road our palates will tell
us the way to roast. Hope you enjoy our latest
offering! Get it while it lasts.
*see
http://coopcoffees.com/committees/green/
projects/bolivia-ft-quality-competition
for more details on the Fair Trade cupping
competition held in 2006.
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