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Celebrate
The Dark Pleasure of French Roast
by Keith Tomlinson, Peace Coffee Head Roaster
Monday
morning I was running late to work. And so it was
around seven when I found myself headed west on
Lake St., the sun barely making its way above the
horizon warming my back enough to prod me along.
Ahead of me was the moon dangling just above the
Minneapolis downtown, large and yellow in that way
that only occurs around a full moon as it is
rising or setting. I wanted to stop pedaling and
to exist in the photograph that lay before me, and
freeze like the water that surrounded me. But, I
was late to work and so I put my head down and
into the wind and let the icicles take their place
upon my beard.
When
the cold starts getting to the center of me, I
start liking my coffee darker.
The
French Roast at Peace Coffee recently switched
from Mexican beans to Peruvian ones. We get our
Peruvian beans from Cenfrocafe and Pangoa.
Currently, we are roasting the beans from
Cenfrocafe.
Cenfrocafe
is a coop member of a larger second level
marketing umbrella organization known as Cepicafe.
Cenfrocafe
was founded in 1999 with 220 small-scale coffee
farmers in 11 community-based organizations. Today
Cenfrocafe serves 1,480 farmers in 52
organizations. Cenfrocafe families own on average
3 hectares of land, of which half might be under
coffee cultivation. The region spans the lush
hillsides of Jaen and San Ignacio provinces with
growing altitudes ranging from 1,300 to 1,800
meters. But despite the hard work that has gone
into coffee in this prime productive region,
farmers continue live under the most rudimentary
conditions.
Nevertheless,
as Cenfrocafe founding member and current
president of the producer Board of Directors,
Anselmo Huaman Moreto explains: "A huge
difference in our lives is that now our children
can actually go to school, our coffee is being
recognized in the market for the quality we
produce, and our members can be proud again to be
farmers."
There
is a balancing act with darker roasts between
bringing to a coffee, through the roasting
process, all of the smooth and rich flavors yet
not loosing the inherit regional qualities of the
coffee bean itself.
The
French Roast we end up with from these Peruvian
beans is sweet and mellow, with bold almond and
chocolate flavors.
It
helps melt the icicles from my beard, motivates me
to enjoy this spectacular gift of winter and,
hopefully, helps me to get to work on time.
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