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TJ
Semanchin, Peace Coffee roaster extraordinaire
A
couple of years ago, I found myself in the
Ethiopian countryside on a trek to the coffee
world’s equivalent of Mecca – the Birthplace
of Coffee. It was my second day of an historic
visit to our newest trading partner – the Oromia
Coffee Farmers Cooperative Union.
Unbeknownst
to me, Tadesse Meskela (our gracious host and
general manager of the Coffee Union) had arranged
for us to go to the western coffee region near
Kaffe where coffee got its name. Near the town of
Jimma we were led through coffee fields (that more
closely resembled forests) to a revered pasture.
Under the direct sun Ayene, an Oromo elder, told
the story of how the famous goat herder Kaldi
unleashed the secret of Kaffe’s forests. He told
us how Kaldi discovered his goats wandering from
the very pasture where we were standing into the
nearby forest. He followed them and soon saw an
astonishing thing – the goats started dancing.
After observing this for a few nights he realized
the goats were eating the bright red cherries off
of a nearby bush. These were the fruits of the
coffee plant, thus energizing the goats with the
same caffeine that perks us up every morning.
Ever
since, Ethiopians have enjoyed their native
coffee, which remains one of the most unique and
cherished coffees in the world.
Another
highlight of the trip was partaking in the
traditional "coffee ceremony" at Haj
Hussein’s coffee farm. The amount of energy
Ethiopians put into roasting and brewing their
coffee confirms what an important component it is
to their culture. While we sat getting acquainted
with Haj Hussein and his family, his daughter
Rahema was busy roasting fresh coffee beans in a
pan over charcoal. She then ground the roasted
beans in a wooden mortar and pestle and placed
them in a clay jabana, an Ethiopian coffee
pot. After seeping the grounds in the hot water
she filled a dozen or so cups, her slow pour
preventing any grounds from coming out with the
liquid. I sat drinking the best cup of coffee in
my life, ten feet from where it was grown. My cup
was filled three more times before we left.
Ethiopians typically drink coffee in this manner
three times a day!
I
was in Ethiopia representing Peace Coffee along
with two other roaster-members of Cooperative
Coffees, our coffee-importing cooperative. In
addition to learning about the history of coffee
we were in Ethiopia to celebrate our new
relationship with the Oromo farmers. Many of the
farmers told us that we were the very first
importers to take the time to pay them a visit.
This reveals a fundamental flaw of the
conventional coffee market, where transactions are
faceless and the well-being of farming communities
is ignored.
During
our visits with the farmer cooperatives we pledged
our commitment to Fair Trade and to support their
efforts in improving their lives. They in turn
pledged their commitment to providing us with
their best coffee and sharing the benefits of Fair
Trade with their families while addressing their
communities’ needs. They shared with us some of
the most pressing of these needs, such as access
to clean water (Ethiopian women and their children
walk for miles each day to fetch water). With
funds from the sale of their coffee at Fair Trade
prices the people could now begin building wells
and infrastructure to bring water closer to their
homes. As our relationship deepens we hope to help
these communities realize these plans.
We
left with a renewed energy and deeper appreciation
for the people and culture of Ethiopia. The
farmers in turn were touched by our sincerity and
our commitment to ensuring they’re compensated
fairly for the wonderful product they provide. Try
a cup of the Ethiopian Yirgacheffe and behind
those wonderful winey-berry flavors imagine
Kaldi’s predecessors heading into their shaded
coffee fields with pride.
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