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TJ Semanchin, Peace Coffee roaster extraordinaire

A couple of years ago, I found myself in the Ethiopian countryside on a trek to the coffee world’s equivalent of Mecca – the Birthplace of Coffee. It was my second day of an historic visit to our newest trading partner – the Oromia Coffee Farmers Cooperative Union.

Unbeknownst to me, Tadesse Meskela (our gracious host and general manager of the Coffee Union) had arranged for us to go to the western coffee region near Kaffe where coffee got its name. Near the town of Jimma we were led through coffee fields (that more closely resembled forests) to a revered pasture. Under the direct sun Ayene, an Oromo elder, told the story of how the famous goat herder Kaldi unleashed the secret of Kaffe’s forests. He told us how Kaldi discovered his goats wandering from the very pasture where we were standing into the nearby forest. He followed them and soon saw an astonishing thing – the goats started dancing. After observing this for a few nights he realized the goats were eating the bright red cherries off of a nearby bush. These were the fruits of the coffee plant, thus energizing the goats with the same caffeine that perks us up every morning.

Ever since, Ethiopians have enjoyed their native coffee, which remains one of the most unique and cherished coffees in the world.

Another highlight of the trip was partaking in the traditional "coffee ceremony" at Haj Hussein’s coffee farm. The amount of energy Ethiopians put into roasting and brewing their coffee confirms what an important component it is to their culture. While we sat getting acquainted with Haj Hussein and his family, his daughter Rahema was busy roasting fresh coffee beans in a pan over charcoal. She then ground the roasted beans in a wooden mortar and pestle and placed them in a clay jabana, an Ethiopian coffee pot. After seeping the grounds in the hot water she filled a dozen or so cups, her slow pour preventing any grounds from coming out with the liquid. I sat drinking the best cup of coffee in my life, ten feet from where it was grown. My cup was filled three more times before we left. Ethiopians typically drink coffee in this manner three times a day!

I was in Ethiopia representing Peace Coffee along with two other roaster-members of Cooperative Coffees, our coffee-importing cooperative. In addition to learning about the history of coffee we were in Ethiopia to celebrate our new relationship with the Oromo farmers. Many of the farmers told us that we were the very first importers to take the time to pay them a visit. This reveals a fundamental flaw of the conventional coffee market, where transactions are faceless and the well-being of farming communities is ignored.

During our visits with the farmer cooperatives we pledged our commitment to Fair Trade and to support their efforts in improving their lives. They in turn pledged their commitment to providing us with their best coffee and sharing the benefits of Fair Trade with their families while addressing their communities’ needs. They shared with us some of the most pressing of these needs, such as access to clean water (Ethiopian women and their children walk for miles each day to fetch water). With funds from the sale of their coffee at Fair Trade prices the people could now begin building wells and infrastructure to bring water closer to their homes. As our relationship deepens we hope to help these communities realize these plans.

We left with a renewed energy and deeper appreciation for the people and culture of Ethiopia. The farmers in turn were touched by our sincerity and our commitment to ensuring they’re compensated fairly for the wonderful product they provide. Try a cup of the Ethiopian Yirgacheffe and behind those wonderful winey-berry flavors imagine Kaldi’s predecessors heading into their shaded coffee fields with pride.

 

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