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by
Kopi (bahasa indonesian for coffee)
So,
you drink a dark liquid made by infusing hot water with a
ground version of me but you don’t know much about how I
came to be? Well, that’s no good! Let me tell you a
story about my life so you can appreciate me more fully.
Some
folks say I was discovered by a goatherd named Kaldi
sometime in the sixth century in Ethiopia, when he noticed
his goats were dancing around after eating the cherries
from a particular type of bush. Whether you believe that
version of my origins or not, I do grow inside of a cherry
on a bush, and I imagine if goats ate enough of me, they
would begin to dance!
Where
do I come from these days? I’m pretty fussy about where
I want to grow up, so I stick to hot and hilly areas
between the Tropics of Cancer and Capricorn. I also think
I taste much better (and equally importantly, do not
require pesticides or artificial fertilizers) when I am
grown in the shade of other trees rather than in huge
sunny tracts of land. Each of my bushes has big beautiful
leaves and can keep producing for up to 30 years!
You
probably know that coffee can be classified into two
types: robusta
(a hardier species, not known for its finer taste and not
used by your favorite Fair Trade coffee friends, Peace
Coffee) and arabica
(a tastier and more sensitive version). You may not know
that the bushes, or "trees", of these two types
can look pretty different. Robusta bushes tend to be
higher, sometimes reaching 32 feet, and the cherries are
usually round. Arabica bushes, on the other hand, are
usually less than 20 feet in height and bear oval
cherries.
Now
why do I keep referring to cherries on the coffee bushes,
when we all know I am a bean? Good question. The fruit of
a coffee bush is indeed a cherry, and they turn red when
ripe and ready
to be picked.
But where am I? The seed of the coffee cherry, as you may
have guessed by now, consists of a pair of coffee beans
– me and my sister! But, we’re not quite ready for
brewing. I heard that you read about the roasting process
in an earlier issue of FairGrounds, but we’re not
even ready for that stage yet. So what’s next? Read on
my caffeinated beverage friends!
It’s
now fall or winter, the rainy season is over, I’ve
finished growing into my full size inside the coffee
cherry, and my outer skin is turning red. My owner comes
along and picks all of us off the branch – by hand! –
and puts us into a bag. Taking us to the processing area,
there are then a few choices for me. I can be dry
or wet processed
(or even semi-wet, but there are only so many details I
can give you before you cry out, "Enough
already!"). If dry, it’s pretty simple – they
throw all of us out over a concrete or other large hard
surface, rake us around quite a bit and let the sun dry us
out until our hulls are ready to fall off (usually a few
weeks). In the wet process, they put all of us into
a big machine that pushes us against screens with holes
just large enough for the beans inside of the cherry
casing. Pressure is applied so the cherry fruit is broken
open and we are free to go through the screens. Then
we’re put into a fermentation tank for a little while to
remove the excess fruit sticking to us and put out to dry
(which should only take a week at this point).
And
now I’m ready, right? No, not quite. I’ve still got a
layer of skin surrounding both of us beans, which needs to
be removed during the hulling
stage. Then we’re graded
and sorted,
to make sure that only the best quality beans make it into
the hands of roasters like Peace Coffee. Since I’m one
of the best ones (but of course!), I make it into the bag
with the other excellent green beans and head on out to be
roasted.
Oh,
I almost forgot to mention one of the funniest parts of
the process – well, funny to watch anyway! They call it cupping,
and it consists of these coffee experts coming in,
roasting up little batches of us green beans and brewing
us directly in cups of hot water. Then they really noisily
slurp us into their mouths, get this really serious and
pensive look on their faces and spit us out. Yup, pretty
funny to watch. I know you appreciate their work, however,
as that helps them determine which of us are good enough
to make it into your cup of coffee, and which will end up
in, shall we say, a lesser cup of joe.
So
what do you think? Now that you know how much work it
takes for me to arrive in your kitchen, do you love me all
the more? I sure hope so! I know my farmer appreciated you
buying Fair Trade coffee so he could have a living wage
instead of working for a big estate or selling to a coyote
reseller for a cheap price. I hope you enjoy the perk I
bring to your life, and thanks for reading about me!
---
Nate
Wayman is a self-professed caffeine addict and Fair Trade
coffee lover who recently completed a course in non-profit
management in southern Vermont.
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